Event Previews & Reviews from Soller — 18 of Our Favourites

The first step is to pick up a programme from the town hall or tourist information tram. A pink and white sheet gives a map of all the locations and what is happening at each one. On Friday and Saturday, the openings are from 6pm to midnight and on Sunday from 6pm to 9pm. The route takes you from the cloisters of the Soller’s train station to seventeen other destinations around the centre of town. The Town Hall, the Museum, Can Prunera, local churches, art galleries and some unusual locations are all opening their doors for the weekend of the arts.

On Friday, the music starts with piano and saxophone in the Museum of Soller at 7.30pm followed by the flute in Soller’s town hall at 9pm. The music trail then continues up the Lluna to Ca’n Prunera where music will be played in the gardens from 9.30pm. All this against the backdrop of beautiful paintings and ceramics.

On Saturday, music will be found at the train station at 7pm where the saxophone will be the instrument that passengers on the last train of the day to Palma will have ringing in their ears as they leave the Hidden Valley. At 10pm at the Church of the Escolapies (No 12 on the map) the acclaimed pianist Suzanne Bradbury will be giving a concert (get there early – there is only ever standing room when she performs).

Poetry readings will be given on at 8pm on Friday at the Sa Posada de Montcaire by Pere Colom and on Saturday at 8pm at Can Dulce by Josep Bonnin.

Soller has its own Museum of Modern Art in the newly opened Can Prunera which has brought many new visitors to our town. That together with the permanent Dali exhibition at the Railway station is enough to put Soller firmly on the artistic map. The beauty of this weekend is that visitors can come to town, have dinner or a drink in the square and then drop in to all the galleries on offer. No entrance fees and the opportunity to spread the experience over three days.

The patron of the arts for this weekend is one Tolo Oliver. He is a local Soller man who runs a very successful estate agency and the lottery and tobacconists shop. Tolo is a man content with his life in Soller. Born and bred here, he can see no good reason to leave the town. He lives and breathes everything that Soller has to offer and is a local legend. His ambition was to make enough money to buy shares in Soller Railway Company and become part of the aristocracy of the town. He has achieved this ambition and the Aprop’t A L’Art is part of his gift back to the town he loves. He will be much in evidence this weekend making sure that locals and visitors alike are enjoying this unusual artistic opportunity.

That is not to say you won’t find the funfair in another town square and stalls selling sweets and toys in every lane and street. This is Soller’s annual local celebration. Visitors and tourists are very welcome to join in what is essentially a local affair planned and paid for by the local people. Exhibitions, concerts, equestrian and sporting events are amongst the cultural activities and every night will see live music and dancing in the square. Soller’s sons and daughters return for their holidays at this time of year and the town is buzzing with people happily renewing old friendships and reliving their memories.

It all starts today – Friday 20th August with the inauguration of the art exhibition ‘Mediterrani Mallorqui’ by Francisca Salva Boscana. This takes place in La Capella de les Escolapies until 24th August 2010 (this church building is up a side street off Carrer Lluna). At 9pm, the same building hosts a production of ‘Mallorca Fantastica’ which gives a true flavour of Mallorca in 2010. The Red Cross (La Creu Roja) is also hosting an art exhibition of the works in oil by M. Rosa Bernat, Paquita Romero and Pepa Cortes. This building can be found in the main square alongside the church.

On Saturday 21st August, the town will be busy with its market and entertainment in the morning. Then, from 5pm to 8pm, a series of elaborate bouncy castles will be set up in the square for the children, who can play on these free of charge and have a great time. The square hosts a theatre group from the Victoria Theatre at 9.30pm and then, as that finishes the town will begin to rock to the sounds of ‘Neds Gang’ Pirates Pirats and the DJ sounds of TIOTO. The music starts at 11pm and will eventually finish around 3am. Soller then begins its party which will not finish for another three days.

On Sunday 22nd August, activities such as Petanca, horse riding, and chess take place in venues around town. The evening activities kick off at 7pm with a musical show by the group Estrol de Tramontana. At 10pm the premiere of the film ‘Dificultades’ takes place – this is a production by Joan Cobos and Laura Martin, and stars local resident and actor- Drew Donovan. After the red carpet treatment the square will settle back to watch an open air cinema version of Harry Potter.

Monday 23rd August is children’s day, where they are invited to take part in the ‘Gifts in time of Crisis’ project. Activities are held in the square from 10 am. From 6.30pm the Soller square comes alive with music and dancing, culminating in the groups Gran Verbena and the Champagne Band performing until sunrise the next day.

Tuesday 24th August is the day of the grand finale with a local market in the square. At 11am the church holds the major mass of the fiesta with all local dignitaries taking part plus all who wish to join them. The day becomes a mixture of the formal and the extravagant with music and dancing from 7pm until the Gran Nit de Foc which starts at 11pm. The Soller fire run has become known on the island as the most impressive, and is organised by the group Esclatabutzes. The trees are set on fire and devils roam the streets brandishing horns of fire. This really is a must see event – spectacular when watched from a distance.

The fiesta then draws to a close with dancing till the early hours to more live bands. The next day, thankfully, is a local bank holiday used by all to sweep up and sleep it off until next year.

We drive the scenic routes in our day to day lives just to get as much beauty as we can. The trip to the supermarket now takes us to Alcampo in the middle of the Island. This means we can travel on the new road by passing Bunyola in the direction of Santa Maria. The fields to our left and right are a riot of colour and the sun dusting the mountains provides a stunning backdrop. We really do live in a beautiful part of the world and February reinforces it every year.

A brisk walk to the sea in the Port de Soller every day with the dog puts us in a great position to check up on the works along the seafront. The finishing touches are being put to the sparkling new Jumeriah Hotel which overlooks the harbour. This had been billed as the first seven-star hotel in Europe and is now claiming to be five-star plus. There will be 125 rooms, fantastic facilities, four restaurants and a children’s club.

A very smart hotel from a prestigious group of similar luxury establishments is to be launched any time from March 2011 depending on which publicity you read. ‘Open from March but fully functioning from June’ was the last I heard. 2011 is destined to be a very important year for the Soller valley and this hotel will put the region firmly on the luxury map.

This fiesta is not for the faint hearted or those who hate loud bangs and noise. This is a riotous event and almost anything goes including shooting holes in the straw hats worn for the purpose! A ceremony in Sant Bartomeu Church in the square in Soller on Thursday 5th May at 20.30 pm starts the celebrations. The 'Valiant Women' are introduced to the town, they are elected each year to celebrate the part the women played in attacking the marauding pirates. They turned them back to the sea using a barrage of stones, tar on the road, ambush and all the surprise tactics that these Soller women were capable of. This inaugural gathering includes speeches from local dignitaries and the wonderful music of the towns local choir, Promusica Chorus. They will sing a number of traditional Mallorquin summer songs finishing with a flourish as they sing La Balanguera, the national anthem of the Balearics. 

Friday 6th May celebrates the art and culture of the hidden valley with the opening of no less than 13 new art exhibitions scattered in locations throughout the town. Paintings, ceramics, photographs of the history of the Firo in Soller to name but a few. The church courtyard plays host to an exhibition of bonsai trees and the railway station exhibition hall unveils its new additions to the permanent Miro exhibition. All the art locations are around the main square and surrounding streets. It is possible to have a wonderful day wandering from gallery to gallery, stopping occasionally in the square to be fed and watered. There are shows for children from 17.30 including a Disney montage to be held in the market square together with bouncy castles. The day ends after the main square has been rocking the night away from 23.30 to the sounds of the tribute band Ossifar and the DJ Starkin.

Saturday 7th May - Football matches take place this morning at four locations around town and then the action centres around the main square in Soller. The market will be in full swing and the crowds will be entertained by the local music and dance group Xeremiers de Soller. Look out for the smoking lion and don't be phased by the loud bangs. It is only the Christians practising for the battle that is still to come. At 17.00 there is a solemn procession to Sant Bartomeu church with an offering of flowers as the town gives thanks for its past and its future which this Firo reminds them of. From 22.30 the Soller square will be rocking to the sounds of Calipso which starts the night, followed by Tumbet De Solfa and Baix'n Nicotina. This night will be full of music under the stars and no-one will want to go home.

Sunday 8th May has an array of offerings from a classic car exhibition, chess tournament, cactus display at the botanical gardens and a traditional Mallorquin market in the market hall. A gymkhana is being held at the Son Angelats Poligiono at 11 am and for those that just want to sit in the square the town band will entertain from 12 noon. At 22.00 the town starts to rock again with a trip down memory lane for Mallorca Nostalgica to be followed by dancing the night away to local music groups.

On Monday 9th May at 10 am a traditionally dressed group gather at Can Tamany in the L'horta district of the town and gather outside a house with a plaque on the wall commemorating the valiant women. It is said that this was the site from which they fought off the marauders. This is a poignant low key ceremony that celebrates the power of good over evil and is fascinating to watch. Then the town goes mad - anything goes on this day of the year. Don't come out unless you are ready to party, be pasted with black tar and kissed by marauding pirates! At 15.30 in the square Captain Angelats gives the word to go and fight the pirates on the beaches as they have been spotted trying to land on the Repic beach. The call to arms comes and they get down to the beach (on the tram??), walking, running on horseback and the fighting starts. The battle starts on the beach, erupts on the Pont d'en Barona and eventually ends back in the square with the mother of all battles. At 21.00 Captain Angelats announces victory again for the 450th time and the town parties with music and dancing until the small hours.

Soller has two days local fiesta for this special occasion so the town will be quiet on Tuesday. Enjoy a lie in and recovery time while the great workers of the town council clean the place and put it all back in good order. What a party it will be and one to which you are all invited. Come and join us here in the Hidden Valley. You are very welcome.

Accompanied by chants and singing they will let you know that Carnival is here in Mallorca. This is the gentle end of carnival as the celebrations on Saturday 5th March take us to an altogether different dimension.

The people of the Soller valley enjoy being part of a group or fraternity. The neighbourhoods divide up on historical or religious lines to form a cohesive group. This can be seen in so many aspects of Majorcan village life and is particularly evident at Easter in the colours of the hooded gowns that the penitents wear indicating which group or ‘barrio' they belong to. The same can be seen at the main carnival parade which takes place on Saturday 5th March from 3 pm onwards. Local schools are easy to spot as they are the floats with all the children hanging off them. The schools are all vying with each other to produce the most innovative float and win the prize! There are financial rewards for the top three floats and the rivalry is intense.

The other groups provide a fascinating insight into a Mallorcan culture I do not truly understand. The costumes and themes are extraordinary and represent hours of painstaking work. Not for these people the easy option of going to a costume hire shop. There is a cottage industry of local sewing machines around here making costumes and designing sets to rival film studios. In fact the Port School has its own Hollywood set designer co-ordinating their efforts. Drew Donavan the American actor and set designer is one of the Dads at the local school and his skills are much in demand. Watch out for him if you are there on Saturday afternoon, he will also have a cameo part in directing proceedings. I can't give too much away as I have to declare a little interest here as this is my granddaughter's school and my family are very involved!

Watch out for the groups of men dressed as women complete with wigs and tights. Last year the line dance group followed by the salsa queens strutted their stuff from end to end along the beach creating a party atmosphere which went on long after the children went home. The parade starts about 3 pm and goes on for a couple of hours to be followed by the judging and presentation of prizes. Then the party really begins and the bars and restaurants do a roaring trade and carnival takes over long into the night. It is said that the madness of carnival is paid for by the penance of Lent and so anything goes. Maybe that is the key to understanding the importance of this spectacular show of local effort and fun. Alternatively maybe it's best not to try and understand it but go gently with flow and give yourself up to Carnival in the Port of Soller 2011.

NOTE: Due to the continuing works on the tram line in Port de Soller, the main parade on Saturday 5th March will be held at 4pm in Soller's main square.

Pro Musica are the highly skilled choir of Soller under the leadership of Pep Alarcon - a Musical Director of the Conservatory in Palma. He works his choir very hard and they give performances throughout Mallorca and go on tours to other European destinations. In August they are to give a series of concerts in Berlin. Soller music travels and the choir represents the musical traditions of Mallorca to its maximum and they sell out venues wherever they go.

There are plenty of traditions and genres in Mallorquin choir music. Apart from a universal love of the classical composers, the choir have a varied programme for this concert and includes Balearic folk music and the Habaneras. The Habaneras music is known locally as the' fishermen’s lament' as it originates in the exile of fishermen and others from the Catalan region of Spain to Cuba.

The songs were exported back to the Costa Brava and Mallorca in the 19th century by Catalan sailors and emigrants who came back home. It is widely sung in the resorts of the Costa Brava and in Mallorca. The Port of Soller hosts a weekend each year in July devoted to the music of the Habeneras.

In Havana, the capital of Cuba the first Habaneras appeared around 1825 and were called "Danzas Habaneras". The Tango was the dance that came from this era of music. In 1842 the first habanera, "El amor en el baile" was published as a score. "Amics dels habaneres" and other music groups in 1967 organized the first public Cantada on the beach in the Costa Brava and which has continued annually ever since. This event is today known all over Europe and thousands occupy the beach to listen to the Habaneras. The Port of Soller is working hard to be the place where the annual Mallorquin Habaneras event takes place. Look out for the posters next month!

Pro Musica include the Habaneras in their repertoire and are one of the few choirs in Mallorca that do. This concert is a rare opportunity to hear this music which is very fitting for the fiesta of Sant Pere.

Mallorca has many tales of people leaving to find work and then returning either in retirement or because they couldn't bear to be away. The sadness of this is evident this year as so many of Mallorca's young people are considering life in other countries. This is the last Mallorquin summer for some of them as their migration is taking them to Australia and South Africa. Maybe the sounds of the Habeneras will remind them that there always is a way back and that the returners will always be welcome.

The concert starts on 8.30pm in the Church of San Ramon Penyafort in the Port de Soller.

The point of this costume is to show your allegiance to your group and make your 'penance' in private by covering your face. There are twelve fraternities in Soller, led by the 'Confraria de Natzaret' and with other group names including Sant Josep Obrer, Santiago, Esperanca and Sagrat Cor, to name a few. They all have similar robes but there will be a particular flash of colour or embroidery to denote their identity.

There are daily services in the churches of the Soller valley, namely Port de Soller, L'Horta,Es Convent in Soller, Fornalutx and Deia starting Sunday 1st April and finishing on Easter Sunday 8th April. The timetable is posted outside each church and is also available from the tourist information office in Soller. This is the churches' busy season and they are guaranteed a full house for many of their services. There is something about the solemnity and tradition of Semana Santa that sucks you in and makes you think. My Majorcan neighbours who live 21st century lives proudly dress in this medieval way and embrace the whole experience of Easter, including the solemn parades around the streets.

On Thursday - Dijous Sant (or Maundy Thursday) at 9.30pm the most solemn and silent procession takes place. The penitents carrying the religious figures slowly walk around the centre of Soller. They walk the narrow streets between the convent and the town centre. This is known as the Procession of Blood and it is the only time that our town is quiet. The marchers are silent and all the crowds who have come to take part stand silently as the parade passes by. The only sound is that of the mournful drums of the town band as they bring up the rear.

On Good Friday there are services in all the churches and a solemn procession of the penitents starting at 8.30pm. This march is around the centre of town, in front of the main St Bartomeu church.

On Easter Saturday the march of the penitents starts at 7.45pm and it heads out of the square up past the cemetery and up the mountain to Cami de Ses tres Creus, the site of the three crosses memorial, ending with a service in St Bartomeu church at 10pm.

On Easter Sunday at 9.30 am in the main square in front of St Bartomeu church the Easter Parade celebrating the resurrection takes place. This is altogether a happier affair and the town band celebrates with more than a drum!

After all the agonising it is time for celebration and family gatherings and eating lots of local specialities. The lamb pies and the sweet pastries stuffed with custard fill the bakers' shops and are eaten as picnics on the beaches. All that soul searching is hungry work and a little light relief is called for!

It is well worth experiencing Semana Santa for yourself. I had never seen anything like it before I came to live here and to start with I found it macabre. As time has past I have come to understand what the people are doing and I respect them. If you are visiting this Easter do come and see what I mean – you will never forget it.

Tears soon gave way to the noise that only a Spanish school can make, with the under 8’s disco in full swing in the background. It was then time for us grandparents to beat a hasty retreat and leave them to the food and the fun. Our family supplies one of only three English children to the school, and being in the minority is a far cry from the opposite experience we had led in North London. The village school and local friendships are so important in the Mallorcan way of life as they lay the foundations of the resident’s existence in the Soller valley. More information on how this bonding affects the national identity can be found in the excellent book ‘Ghosts of Spain’ by Giles Tremlett – a great read for those interested in understanding what makes Spain tick.

This week, we celebrate along with the rest of Spain, the fiesta of St John (Sant Joan) on Thursday 24th June. This is a religious festival that celebrates the arrival of summer, and it is important enough to have its own bank holiday. Devils are burned in the purification fires on the eve of St John and a vigil is kept until the first summer sun rises. The biggest celebration of this fiesta in the Soller valley takes place in Deia, as St John is their patron saint. A mere 15 minutes away up the mountain to the right of Soller, Deia is a town where the values of the hippies of the sixties live alongside a new generation of peace loving, artistic, thinking people. The church on the hill in Deia commands a wonderful view of the valley and has an altar dedicated to St John. Celebrations go on all week and the big day (24th June) starts at 9:30am with Soller’s town band parading through the town and up to the church. This sets the scene for a day of music and celebration to welcome the summer. The night will be filled with music and the smells of honeysuckle and interesting cigarettes in the air - it is Deia after all….

Another very important saint that will be celebrated later this week is St Peter (St Pere).  St Peter is the patron saint of fishermen and so has special significance for the residents of Port of Soller. The town has a working fishing fleet which sells its produce at the quayside when the fleet comes home. The catch is then sent around Mallorca and the rest of Spain. Soller prawns are the best in the world (in our opinion) and are prized amongst Mallorcan chefs. The fiesta of St Peter starts just as the fiesta of St John ends and allows the party to come down the mountain into the Port. After the service of thanksgiving in the only working church in the Port, the serious business begins. Music from local bands until the early hours, bouncy castles and entertainment for the children, and restaurants with a never ending supply of those Soller prawns. The celebrations start on the evening of Thursday 24th June and last until Sunday 28th June. Winter is finally shaken off and the Sollerics party and invite you to join them. Come on – be happy – the sun is shining and summer 2010 is just about to start.

Based on the outskirts of town just off the main road signposted to Lluc and Pollenca sits the Soller Tennis and Paddel Club.  Floodlit tennis courts sit on a ridge overlooking the town with the mountains surrounding them. The swimming pool lies below the courts in another unrivalled location. The surrounding scenery is breathtaking and a far cry from our previous life using the municipal pools of central London. The children are there every weekday from 9 till 1 pm and start with two hours of tennis followed by two hours of swimming and cooling down in the pool. They have great fun with their young leaders and grow browner by the day in the beautiful sunshine. This summer school is open to all, not just local children so often holiday makers enrol their children for a week or two to give them the opportunity to mix. It’s worth checking to see if they have any space if you have interested family members.  The cost is around 150€ per week per child.

The Soller Tennis and Paddel Club is open to all but is rarely used by holiday makers as it’s tucked away in the Argeles area of Soller. It is worth taking a detour to find it, the full size pool is often empty and there are plenty of sun loungers and umbrellas to encourage you to spend the day exercising and relaxing high up in the mountains. There are five floodlit tennis courts, four paddel courts, swimming pool and small cafeteria.  More information can be found at their website.

If you are staying in a hotel or villa with a private court you may prefer the services of our local freelance tennis coach who plays and teaches island wide. Matt Dean is a relocater to the Soller valley from North London and now plays on the courts of Mallorca rather than Hampstead Heath.

After all that action what could be nicer than wandering the shaded streets of Soller as the sun begins to lose its heat. The walks of Soller will occupy another article but a place to find this month is Soller’s Museum and Cultural Centre in the Carrer del Mar.  Local artist Dorothy Bradbury is exhibiting her popular work from now until 30th July 2010. Opening hours Monday to Friday 11.00 – 16.00 and 19.00 – 21.00 Saturday from 11 – 13.00. The museum is housed in a typical Mallorquin house with central courtyard and is a great backdrop for beautiful art.

Another art gallery can be found in the Randemar Restaurant on the seafront at the Port of Soller. This month they have an exhibition of photographs by the famous ‘image artist’ Lennart Janko. Lennart is a Swedish photographer of note who says of himself

 ‘In order to find beauty in life you will have to search for it. My pictures contain moments that affect. Sensible reflections of people, places and matters’

His pictures are worth looking at and the restaurant, serving great Italian food is always a pleasure. More information about this artist can be found at his website.   This exhibition will last until 30th July 2010 and may extend.

Our square is perfect for this as the parade starts in the Carrer de Luna (the main shopping street in town) which then snakes round the square before climbing on to the stage in front of the town hall. We watched as groups from Soller, Panama, Brazil, Ciudad Real, Poland and Italy - dressed in their national costumes - danced into town and onto that overcrowded stage. The square was packed with locals and visitors alike, who gave them a very enthusiastic welcome.

It’s hot for the dancers and the audience, so all the events this week start at either 21.30 or 22.00. The sun has gone by then but the ladies of Soller still have their fans to cool them – this is the hottest time of the year after all. The purchase of a fan is a good investment for Mallorcan nights sitting out in the square or on the beach. 

The programme of events for Sa Mostra provides opportunities for you to join in with the groups as they practise, and share their knowledge at the daily workshops. These are to be found every morning from 10.30 to 13.30 at the Es Puig School in Carrer Argeles. Follow the signs to Lluc and Pollenca on the main road from Soller to the Port. The school is near the town swimming pool and tennis courts. The workshops are open to all who want to join in and they run daily from Monday 19th July to Thursday 22nd July 2010.

Tuesday 20th July there are performances in Soller at 21.30, Port of Soller (Repic Beach) at 22.00, and in the square of Fornalutx at 22.00. Dances by Panama and Ciudad Real in Soller. The Port of Soller is home to a dance parade by Italy and the group from Poland will be dancing in Fornalutx.

Wednesday 21st July at 21.30 Brazil will bring the Soller square alive while Italy and Ciudad Real leave the Soller valley for the town square of Algaida where their performance starts at 22.00.

Thursday 22nd July the whole of Sa Mostra relocates to Palma with a performance by all participating groups in the Llar dels Ancians (General Riera) at 20.45.  They just about get their breath back before they move to Palma’s favourite park by the sea – the Parc de la Mar. All countries will be dancing there at 22.00.

Friday 23rd July Brazil will make the Port of Soller come alive to the sights and sounds of the Latin beat at 22.00. Poland will be dancing in Deia square at 22.00 and Panama travels to Sa Pobla to give their performance at 22.00.

Saturday 24th July, from 11 am in Soller square, while the market bustles, music will be provided by all the dance groups as they attempt to get every one there on their feet! Sa Mostra was formed for a love of dance and sharing of skills and culture and this is really seen on the last day when it is their ambition to make everyone a participant.

The grand finale to a fantastic week takes place on Saturday 24th July at 22.00 in Soller square. The closing ceremony takes place with dances from all the groups until the early hours. Then with friendships formed, new skills learned and a little more understanding of each other Sa Mostra finishes for 2010.  A week to remember.

The only way to travel to Majorca’s capital was by stagecoach across the Coll de Soller, a high mountain with a steep narrow dirt track. And this was an uncomfortable, slow ride and hard on the horses and donkeys. These days, if you take the same trip by car, it is a good steep mountain road with many bends. The restaurants you find along the way were once the inns where passengers and animals rested and were fed.

In 1893 a citizen of Soller, Jeronimo Estades, presented plans for a franchise to run a railway through Valldemossa and Deya to Palma. This was refused because of the high cost of the project but the genie was now out of the bottle and there was a tremendous will within the town to find a way to link Soller with the rest of civilisation.

Ten years later, in 1903, an industrialist Juan Morell proposed the building of a Palma-Soller railway cutting through the Sierra de Tramuntana mountains (below the Coll de Soller pass) via a series of tunnels. Many discussions and rejections later Juan Morell, Jeronimo Estades and the engineer Pedro Garau formed an alliance and, using their collective expertise, the project began to flourish.

Work started simultaneously from Palma and Soller on 3rd June 1907 and ended with the official inauguration of the railway on 16th April 1912 – hence the railway's 100th birthday next month.

The story is fascinating and the collective will of the people in supporting this project is at the heart of our town. Soller people identify with the continued success of the Ferrocarril company who run the train and tram. They will be out in force tonight for the opening of a new exhibition celebrating the centenary of the Soller train. This takes place in the Can Prunera Museum of Modern art in the Lluna, just off the main square in Soller. The exhibition will be the highlight of the year for the museum and will tell the story in more detail than I have of how this dream became reality.

Take a trip on the train from Palma to Soller, wander through the square and up to Can Prunera and celebrate with us the first 100 years of the Soller train.

Can Prunera is open daily from 10.30 to 18.30 during the summer months (1st March-30 September). Last admission is 18.00.

To read more about the town itself visit our Soller section.

Or for more about the train, click here.

There are various bays in Mallorca that claim to have had a 'Moorish' invasion but Soller celebrates the one that happened in 1561. This was when Algerian invaders landed on the beach in the Port of Soller and marched to Soller town to claim it for the Arabs. The valiant women of Soller were very cunning and this time were ready for the pirates as they sauntered into town. The path was covered in treacle and the women were ready with their catapults. It was the women that repelled the invaders and sent them either to an untimely end or back to sea – grateful to get on their ships and head out of town. We love the valiant women of Soller and every year two young women are elected to hold the office of 'Valiant Dones' for the year.

The re-enactment is always held during the second weekend in May and this year the battle will commence on Monday 14th May 2012. In the afternoon the first landing by the pirates takes place on the beach near the Marina. Dressed in the North African Moorish costumes of the period local men women and children, together with their swords and shotguns and faces painted black, arrive by boat to be met by the local townsfolk. They are dressed in traditional Majorcan costumes and carry stone catapults. The battle starts here and the tradition is for the Moors to shoot through the straw hats of the townsfolk. So, if you are wearing a sun hat be prepared for its demise!

The battle then continues on the Repic beach before the grand march into town. When they get as far as the Monument restaurant, about a third of the way into town, the valiant women of the Tamany district come out to start the mother of all battles. The feckless pirates know when they have met their match and either run away or are taken prisoner and marched up to Soller town for the final indignation. Soller square is ready for the final battle which will have you reaching for the earplugs. Shooting, fireworks and big crowds are the name of the game for about an hour and then the battle is won. The Moors and the Christians retire to the local bars to inspect their wounds and make plans to do it all again next year.

The fiesta ends with the battle but the week leading up to it finds Soller in expansive mood. Art exhibitions, a concert by Pro Musica, Soller's choir, and performances by the town band are amongst the delights on offer. May is a great month in Soller; there is always something going on. This year we also have the exhibition of the 100th anniversary of the Soller Train at the Can Prunera Museum of Modern Art in the Lluna. The train station itself boasts a new Miro mural that welcomes visitors as they step off the train.

You are welcome to celebrate our fiesta with us – suspend belief and any theories you might hold on 'health and safety' because it sometimes appears that the rule book has gone out of the window. But it all seems to work and no-one forgets the first time they saw Soller re-enact their proud past.

For a detailed programme of activities over the five day festival visit our events calendar.

The enchanting courtyard of the Museu de la Mar in the Port of Soller provided a magical backdrop to last Friday’s Summer Sunset Concert performed by Fiona Stuart-Wilson (soprano) and Waltraud Mucher (mezzo soprano) accompanied by pianist Suzanne Bradbury.

The attentive audience at the concert were treated to a musical journey starting with a Rossini nocturne about the sea. The moonlight and the sea were an appropriately key theme during the concert, which featured perennially popular duets including the Flower duet from Lakme and Offenbach’s famous Barcarolle. The performers also included in their programme some less well- known but equally charming pieces by composers including Fauré and Liszt.

The second half saw a distinct Spanish theme (as well as a change of dresses for the singers!) , but one seen through French eyes as we were also introduced to some of the songs and duets written by French composers inspired by the culture of Spain, with works by Massenet, Gounod, and Delibes being offered up for our delectation. Particularly interesting for those who live in Soller, the Habanera capital of Mallorca, was an arrangement of a cheeky Habanera by the neglected 19th century French- Spanish composer Pauline Viardot-Garcia – sung appropriately in both French and Spanish!

The concert closed with two delightful duets from French light opera which along with the rest of the programme really showed the performers’ versatility and left not a few members of the audience humming as they made their way home!

This was the fifth year of this very popular concert and yet again these three performers have managed to bring a delightful new selection of songs and duets for a summer night. For many in the audience this concert is now an annual event not to be missed and they are looking forward to the summer sunset concert 2014!

To see what other events and concerts are coming up in Mallorca, please keep an eye on our Events Calendar.

Since the Moors organised the collection of every drop of rain that falls on the mountains this valley has been the most fertile. At the turn of the century the prosperity of Soller depended on the orange and the silk worm. The money that funded Soller's expansion and enabled it to run its own train came from these sources. The silk worms have long since gone, together with the textile industry that they created, but the orange remains. The humble orange often falls to the floor and remains uncollected because it is no longer financially viable to collect, package and sell. Sadly, Soller oranges are no longer exported all over the world as they once were.

There is hope in 2012 that the farmers of Soller dedicated to the farming of citrus crops will find new markets for their produce. As part of the Orange Festival there is a competition to find the farmer that is doing most to promote the orange. The local papers have a voting form which lists the three that have made the short-list. My favourite has to be Pep Pomegranate – just for the name alone!

Apart from the farmers there is also the local Fet a Soller. This is an organisation making innovative use of the orange in oils, jams, liqueurs and much more. If there is a use for the orange they will find it and promote it. The local agricultural co-op situated on the way to Biniaraix is also a promoter of the interesting uses the orange can be put to and is well worth a visit.

'Fira I Jornades de la Taronja' is the name you will see promoting this special time of year and it all starts on Saturday 2nd June 2012 and runs until 17th. There will be orange themed statues and models in the main square and orange tastings in the market. The local restaurants are launching their two weeks of special orange menus. There are over twenty participating restaurants and hotels who are part of this promotion. The orange menus are available at 20€ and 25€ and can be linked to reduced prices on the train and tram. If you take a day return trip from Palma on the train , use the tram and then have lunch in a participating restaurant the price is 35€. This is very good value for money and I can guarantee that the food will be excellent -especially if you like the taste of orange.

The Port of Soller is seriously open for business now that all its work is complete. The wide walkways at the seafront and the new beaches have made it all worth the work and disruption of the past few years. The fiesta of the orange will bring new visitors to our town and port and I am sure they will love what they see. The sunbeds are sitting under newly installed palm tree umbrellas on the sand and the effect is Caribbean. The lone saxophone player entertaining the diners on the Repic beach this week continued the theme and the weather joined in. Beautiful sunny days and the clear light of June in the Mediterranean. The Fiesta of the Orange starts the summer season in Soller and its Port and we all hope you have a one to remember in 2012.

Read more in our Guide to Soller and our Guide to Port de Soller.

There was a Facebook creation of a mass party on the Repic beach on Saturday 16th June. This was quickly denied by the Town Council. Rumours still abound that people intend to gather for an impromptu party but that will be no different from any other summer night on the beach. Summer in Soller means meeting your friends on the beach - that is just what we do.

The organised events for June start at the Repic beach as the children break up from school on Friday 22nd June. The weekend of 23rd and 24th June sees many events on the Repic Beach. Starting with a morning football tournament and Medieval Fair there is much to see. The events of the day include sporting events, craft fair, market and a Fire demonstration. The evening commences with music and dancing at 6 pm from the local dance group Xeremiers de Soller. This is being billed as the Fiesta of the Repic but it also coincides with the Fiesta of St Joan. This is the traditional day to welcome the start of summer with bonfires on the beach. Local people turn up as the sun goes down with a picnic on the beach. The bonfires are lit and the tradition is to swim at midnight to ensure a good summer. This year with the Fiesta in full swing it will be a busy time on the beach and the first test of the newly enlarged sands which should give everyone space to spread out.

The following weekend of 30th June and 1st July sees the action shift a little to the Marina end of the Port of Soller. Santa Catalina celebrates the Fiesta of Sant Pere (St Peter). As a working fishing village St Peter is very important to the life of this community and is given due reverence. The statue of St Peter arrives by sea and is carried to the church for the blessing on all fishermen. There are activities for children in the Port area, followed by music and dancing as the sun goes down. Don't miss the parade of the Giants which happens at 9pm on Saturday 30th June - the visit of the Giants from Llucmajor is a highlight of this fiesta.

Soller people love to gather on the beach and in the Port for these Fiestas as they have an important role to play in the life of our community. Visitors are always welcome to join in and be part of the celebrations. They all have a local significance and are not created as tourist attractions. It is a great opportunity to feel heartbeat of Soller and connect with the people.

June is a wonderful month in Soller as it heralds the start of summer and the promise of a good season. Do join us – you are very welcome.

The outside world visits us every Saturday and the market is in full swing from 8 am in the centre of Soller. The market stalls start from the covered market hall and wind their way up side streets and alongside the main square. La Lluna’s shops lay tables in the street and the market theme is everywhere. Arrive in Soller by train on a Saturday morning and you will not miss the stalls selling jewellery, clothes, toys, sweets and local handicrafts. The stalls selling hams and sobrasada are very inviting and you can taste before you buy. The ‘must have’ straw baskets with leather handles are usually alongside the ham and no self respecting Solleric goes to the beach without their ‘market bought’ basket carrying towels and sun cream.

The market is a very important social occasion where business is done and meetings take place that oil the wheels of the community. It may look like kisses on both cheeks and a coffee but much more is going on under the surface. In fact I would go as far as to say that a local’s presence in the market on Saturday is a requisite of living here and entering into village life. Children are often to be found selling homemade cakes and orange juice to raise funds for local group activities and everyone has their little part to play in supporting the local economy. The community is often entertained by music groups or the town band and the stage is often set for a presentation and a speech. Saturday mornings in Soller are definitely worth a visit. The best place to get a ringside seat and soak up all the action is from Café Central or Café Paris. Sit awhile with a coffee and just watch, you will be surprised at what you see and absorb.

On Sundays the focus shifts to Santa Maria where a huge market takes place from early until about 2 pm. Soller’s market caters for the locals and tourists, Santa Maria is the market town of the north-west of the island and as such it encompasses the people and the produce of the area. You will find many Solleric who regard this market as the one they cannot miss each week. Everything is sold here including wonderful fresh fruit and vegetables from all the surrounding farms. Parking takes time but there are large car parks on the three sides of the town and walking to the market square is not far. There are a number of local cafes to sit and watch market ‘Santa Maria’ style happen.

A few minutes up the road from Santa Maria is the town of Consell which hosts the island’s largest flea market every Sunday. The goods here range from second hand clothes, toys and furniture to jewellery, antiques and a vast selection of items that would only mean something to the buyer! This market attracts many people each week and is worth adding on to your visit to Santa Maria. Enjoy the markets of the hidden valley – they are worth it for the ‘people watching’ alone.

The Moors invaded on May 11, 1561 at the Port of Soller and were battled by the men of Soller in an attempt to defend their town.  But what the men folk didn’t know was that the pirate invaders had split into two groups and half the force was already heading into Soller, intending to raid the town and steal the women and children. Whilst the women put on a valiant fight, (with two sisters Catalina & Francisca managing to defend their home and their honour), they were eventually seized by the pirates.  Once the Sollerics had defeated the Moors in the Port, they headed back into town, only to meet the second group of raiders who were carrying off treasures and the women and children.   After two more battles, the Sollerics finally defeated the aggressors in the Placa de Soller. 

The festival takes place over four days in two distinct parts.  The first part is the ‘Fira’ – a country fair where local arts and crafts are displayed for sale and livestock unique to the Balaerics are on show.  The Firo takes place on the Monday and is a re-enactment of the invasion.  It starts on the beach in the Port of Soller, and the locals dress up as either the Christians in traditional Mallorcan dress (guns, wide brim hats, white shirts and baggy three-quarter length trousers) or the Moors in Arabic dress (blackened faces, swords and turbans).  The battles commence on various boats in the Port with a great deal of gunshots, explosions, submersions and frivolity!  The battle slowly makes its way into the town, with firecrackers and spectator participation, with both sides refreshing themselves with the local mountain herb liquor.  The atmosphere does get a little crazy as the Moors try to smear black boot polish on to their Christian adversaries.  They scale the square's  buildings looking for women and riches.  The final scene in the main square sees the defeat of the Moors with hangings from the plane trees, triumphant fireworks and celebratory music.  Victory is announced by the Sollerics Captain and thanks are given to the Virgin of Victory.  Who knows what’s going on by this stage, but with DJ’s spinning tunes in to the night, the party is certainly in full swing!

This week Fornalutx has been in the news with animal rights protestors objecting to the ‘Bull run’ that happens every September. This is a tradition that marks the start of the Fiesta of Fornalutx to celebrate its patron saint La Mare de Deu (the mother of God). This is a village that holds firm to its traditions and some of them are not for the fainthearted.

Fornalutx has a flower filled village square that looks up to the church that dominates the place. The picturesque houses open on to the steps which lead down to the centre, a village which is crying out to be explored. Around the next corner is another charming view or magnificent vista stretching out over the mountains and valley. Many mountain walks start from here and the route past the cemetery gently wending its way back down to Soller is a ‘warm up trail’ for many people before tackling some of the ‘hard man’ walks of the area.

It is a place to spend some time in to absorb what it is really all about. The hidden valley has a gentle rivalry between Soller and Fornalutx which goes back to the 1800’s when Fornalutx was freed from Soller’s control and awarded its own Council status. Memories last in this time warp and scratch beneath the surface and you will find a derogatory story or two.

All that is forgotten for the duration of the fiesta and all are welcome – visitors and Sollerics alike. This village likes to dance so every night of the fiesta there is live music and dancing in the square and the programme is as follows:

Monday 6th September 2010

8.00 The pipes and drums of the town band The Xeremiers parade through town escorting the bull. The parade is a lively and noisy affair ending in a breakfast picnic.

16.00 Children’s games organised by local parents – always ends wet! Children should bring their swimming costumes

20.30 Fornalutx has an open air dinner together – Pa amb boli, drinks, ice cream and drinks. Buy your tickets – 5€ for adults and 3 € for children from any of the local bars or shops.

Followed by music and dancing until the early hours to the sounds of Brasilial Show, Crazy Melody and the Acrobatic Kenian Boys.

Tuesday 7th September 2010

11 am Mass in honour of the saints at Fornalutx church

12noon Musical Spectacular for children

19.00 Bouncy castles for the little children (free) and a major football tournament for the boys

20.00 Aire Sollerics – local traditional dance groups perform in the square

Then its music all the way from 23.00 with live bands Duo Piscis, Minut Band, Petit Pelucon Flowers and DJ sets

Wednesday 8th September 2010

9.30 am The Music Band of Soller parades through Fornalutx

11 am Solemn mass of the Fiesta

12 noon More music from the Soller Band

16.30 Gymkhana, tennis and other sporting opportunities

21.30 Theatre group performance

And at midnight the grand finale a magnificent firework display to bring 2010’s fiesta to a glorious end.

Old rivalries forgotten and fun for all! Fornalutx have been preparing this fiesta for a year and they hope you enjoy it as much as they will.