Sant Joan & St Pere Firas in Soller

Tears soon gave way to the noise that only a Spanish school can make, with the under 8’s disco in full swing in the background. It was then time for us grandparents to beat a hasty retreat and leave them to the food and the fun. Our family supplies one of only three English children to the school, and being in the minority is a far cry from the opposite experience we had led in North London. The village school and local friendships are so important in the Mallorcan way of life as they lay the foundations of the resident’s existence in the Soller valley. More information on how this bonding affects the national identity can be found in the excellent book ‘Ghosts of Spain’ by Giles Tremlett – a great read for those interested in understanding what makes Spain tick.

This week, we celebrate along with the rest of Spain, the fiesta of St John (Sant Joan) on Thursday 24th June. This is a religious festival that celebrates the arrival of summer, and it is important enough to have its own bank holiday. Devils are burned in the purification fires on the eve of St John and a vigil is kept until the first summer sun rises. The biggest celebration of this fiesta in the Soller valley takes place in Deia, as St John is their patron saint. A mere 15 minutes away up the mountain to the right of Soller, Deia is a town where the values of the hippies of the sixties live alongside a new generation of peace loving, artistic, thinking people. The church on the hill in Deia commands a wonderful view of the valley and has an altar dedicated to St John. Celebrations go on all week and the big day (24th June) starts at 9:30am with Soller’s town band parading through the town and up to the church. This sets the scene for a day of music and celebration to welcome the summer. The night will be filled with music and the smells of honeysuckle and interesting cigarettes in the air - it is Deia after all….

Another very important saint that will be celebrated later this week is St Peter (St Pere).  St Peter is the patron saint of fishermen and so has special significance for the residents of Port of Soller. The town has a working fishing fleet which sells its produce at the quayside when the fleet comes home. The catch is then sent around Mallorca and the rest of Spain. Soller prawns are the best in the world (in our opinion) and are prized amongst Mallorcan chefs. The fiesta of St Peter starts just as the fiesta of St John ends and allows the party to come down the mountain into the Port. After the service of thanksgiving in the only working church in the Port, the serious business begins. Music from local bands until the early hours, bouncy castles and entertainment for the children, and restaurants with a never ending supply of those Soller prawns. The celebrations start on the evening of Thursday 24th June and last until Sunday 28th June. Winter is finally shaken off and the Sollerics party and invite you to join them. Come on – be happy – the sun is shining and summer 2010 is just about to start.