Moros y Cristianos, Santa Ponsa

On the 9th September 1229 King Jaume I and his Catalan troops disembarked and reconquered the island. Around the same date, every year, the whole town takes to the streets to enjoy and participate in its historical reenactment.

Flags representing both Catalans and Moors decorate the town's lampposts. Locals get into the spirit of things, swapping civilian dress for costumes, choosing between Knights and Arabian nights. Whole families dress up together, the most dedicated opting for wooden carts to replace modern buggies to carry the littlest in the group.
The festivities start at 5pm, but it's probably best to forget your watch. Not quite knowing what's going on or when things are going to kick off is part of the charm. At least, that's what I suggest you tell yourself while you're waiting and wondering along with everyone else.

The Christians troops disembark at the bay of Santa Ponsa to the sound of drums. They stand in line with swords raised to greet King Jaume I. The atmosphere is festive and there's a lot of laughter and joking. By my side, a Moor in sunglasses wolf whistles at a man dressed up as a Christian lady, complete with very hairy chest, and tells her it's a shame she's a Christian.

Once the knights are all safely on dry land, a procession with traditional wooden giants, representing King Jaume I and Queen Violant of Hungary, plus 'xeremias', players of the traditional Mallorcan bag pipe, makes it way towards the site of the first battle, the picturesque cove, Calò d'en Pelisser.

The 'collas', or bands, of Moors and Christians are made up of people of all age groups. It's wonderfully absurd to watch grown men and women charging at each other with wooden swords. Not taking yourself too seriously is one of the best ingredients for a good time.

The final battle takes place in Santa Ponsa beach as dusk falls. The little girl by my side was very disappointed that the Christians had won yet again, as she informed me they'd won all the previous years. That's history for you. Fortunately there's no hard feelings between the Moors and Christians of Santa Ponsa. Everybody joins in the party that goes on well into the early hours, with an outside stage hosting bands and DJ's, and a medieval market satisfying post-battle munchies.