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Las Bovedas Restaurant Review, Llucmajor

Sophisticated gourmet cuisine in a Mediterranean garden

Jose Rains | Mallorca Reporter | Published: 25th September 2017

In need of a rural retreat, we escaped to the Son Julia Country House Boutique Hotel for a couple of days as an early autumn break. It’s conveniently located in Mallorca’s beautiful countryside just 15 minutes east of the airport, making it a prime destination for a bit of rest and rehabilitation for a long weekend... or more.

One of the biggest highlights of our stay was our visit to Las Bovedas Restaurant, which is a luxury gastronomic affair. It was a good job I turned up for dinner hungry because I wouldn’t have wanted to miss out on a single course here!

Walking into the restaurant at 19:30 on a warm September evening, we were immediately greeted by a charming waiter who asked us if we would like to have an aperitif before proceeding to our table. It didn’t take much persuading as we plonked ourselves down in the outdoor lounge area bordering the restaurant's terrace. We decided to kick off the evening with a cocktail, our concoctions of choice were an Aperol Spritz (7,50€) and a Mojito (12€). They were served a few moments later and quenched our thirst as we soaked up some of the last rays of the glowing sunlight. 

As we sat down, we admired our surroundings. Each table was immaculately prepared for the evening, surrounded by natural wicker chairs. Ours, being closest to the garden, gave us front row seats to the passion fruit trees along with the live music act preparing her equipment for the evening.

Inspecting the menu, it quickly became apparent that the food was as sophisticated as the setting. The dishes are a fusion of east meets west but there is certainly a strong Mediterranean theme running throughout. Starters like ‘Iberian ham with crystal bread, Mallorcan ramallet tomatoes and extra virgin olive oil’ (23€) and a main course like ‘Beef tenderloin with creamy rice and Mallorcan Butifarron sausage, green asparagus and red Oporto juice’ (29€) might appeal to someone keen to try some more traditional food from the island. Italian risotto, pasta dishes and delicious international fish and meat recipes all appeared on the menu.

There’s a good selection of Mallorcan wines on the wine list along with some Spanish mainland choices. We were both keen to try the Son Julia Country House Boutique Hotel’s wine which is made from grapes from their own vineyard, so we opted for the ‘Chapren’ which is a mere 5€ per glass. Soon after taking our first sip, which was pleasant, light and fruity with just the right level of acidity, the restaurant manager Kelly came and took our orders. She was incredibly knowledgeable about all the dishes on the menu and guided us in the right direction with our choices. At this point, the singer took to her microphone and gave her own gentle rendition of classic tracks throughout the decades, which added another dimension to the polished ambiance.

We were offered an amuse-bouche before the meal began. The roasted beetroot gazpacho was the perfect start to our evening. Both its presentation and flavours were elegant and set the tone for what was to come.

As a starter, I enjoyed the ‘Caramelized foie micuit with pineapple jam and cardamom’ (18€). It was extremely smooth and creamy in texture and taste, heavily contrasted and complimented by the citrusy and sweet flavour of the pineapple jam. Sometimes I can find foie too rich but this was heavenly! Especially with the toasted brioche.

I begrudgingly shared with my counterpart, who opted for the ‘Red tuna tataki with Mediterranean emulsions and mango tartar’ (19€). It was a lighter dish, superbly presented, and got our taste buds singing with every mouthful.

Onto the main course. Being a fish lover, I had been recommended the ‘Sea bass drum with truffled puree, tender garlic and potato glass’ (26€) and it was an advice gratefully received. The fish was immaculately presented and almost melted in my mouth. I am an avid fan of truffle and I am delighted to testify that, with this particular dish, all the flavours were present and were not overpowered by it.

My co-taster opted for the ‘Beef block cooked in two styles with wild mushrooms and spiced pumpkin’ (28€). A heavier and more wintery dish, but absolutely stunning. The meat was succulent and the mushrooms and spiced pumpkin were stimulating accompaniments bringing out different flavours in every mouthful.

Missing dessert just wasn’t an option. We had already taken a sneak peek at the choice at the beginning of the meal and just knew we wouldn’t be able to resist simply because there were some unique options available. The ‘Chocolate sand with almond ice cream and amaretto foam’ (9€) was my choice. And I have come away from the meal with this being the most memorable experience. I had to really concentrate as there was an explosion of textures and flavours going on at the same time. The chocolate and amaretto were an unsurprising pair and complimented one another as expected, but the textures were like nothing I had ever experienced before. The ice cream was creamy and effortlessly balanced the dry chocolate sand made from broken biscuit, whilst the foam intensified the taste.

‘Crème bruleé with lavender and berries’ (9€) was a somewhat lighter dessert. It came in a mug large enough to share between two and was creamy, yet light and moreish with a citrus undertone. Then, in true Spanish style, we finished off our dining extravaganza with a coffee. We each had a "cortado" to finish up our meal along with some petit fours which consisted of deliciously rich chocolates.

The staff were attentive and appeared genuinely interested in each and every table's experience within the restaurant. We definitely came away from the meal satisfied and slept like a log in our superior room in the hotel.

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