Genestar Restaurant - Review
Modern Mallorcan cuisine specialising in local market produce
The Frenchman and I were joined by James (creator our of our site videos) last weekend as we ventured out after a heavier-than-anticipated night in the bars of Palma. Our rather ill-timed destination was the wineries of Binissalem - it was enough to make us break out into a cold sweat. The wisdom of this choice was discussed on the journey, and was unanimously kicked into touch in favour of - you've guessed it - lunch.
As we mulled over the choices in the area, the car ate up the miles, and before we knew it, we were in Alcudia. Now Alcudia is a strange little place - a very pretty Mallorcan walled town that should not be confused with it's neighbour at the port, or more specifically the 2km purpose built strip by the beach that houses most of the Majorcan package holiday hotels. Alcudia has made a determined effort to distinguish itself as a more upmarket town, with the opening of small boutique hotels and top-notch restaurants. One of which is called Genestar. Situated next to the Auditorium, it is easily found and there are plenty of parking spaces.
The charismatic owner, Joan Genestar is also the chef and he offers his diners a set five-course meal at lunch and at dinner. He explained to us that he changes the menu daily, depending on what is available at market. The ‘no choice' menu features Mallorcan produce and suited us more perfectly than he could ever have known - not being in a fit state to actually make a decision about what to order. The offer of wine was politely refused, but for the record, the house wine is priced at €14, with the majority of the wine list falling around €20 - €30.
When asked what drinks we would like, the Frenchman who was struggling with his headache, came over all French and asked for a ‘citron presse'. The kindly waiter tilted his head quizzically in the universal gesture of ‘I have no idea what you are talking about', so the Frenchman asked if he could get some freshly squeezed lemon juice with a small jug of water. The waiter replied uncertainly that he could provide fresh lime juice, and looked quite horrified when the Frenchman confirmed that that was exactly what he wanted. He duly returned, and served the said lime juice with a Gallic shrug and a bemused smile.
The dining room of Genestar has been designed with modernity in mind, and it felt spacious and stylish. Background lounge music added to the ambiance, and we began to wish that we had come for dinner so we could make a night of it.
Our first course arrived hot on the heels of fresh bread and local olive oil, much to the delight of the boys. A light cream of celery soup sprinkled with toasted sesame seeds had a wonderfully delicate flavour, and was polished off almost instantly. This was followed by tempura chicken on a bed of green beans and courgettes, served with a pimiento mayonnaise. The tempura was perfectly light, and contained moist, juicy chicken which had a slight lemon flavour. Combined with the al-dente vegetables and the mayonnaise, the dish was an absolute cracker.
The fish course was next, and we were presented with a piece of cod, on a bed on Mallorcan tomatoes and some pureed potato. The salty cod worked well with the sweet tomatoes, and the potato puree had a smoky flavour and was smoother than a baby's bottom. Again, the combination of flavours was clever, subtle and delicious. Confit of duck followed, served with a light honey gravy and vegetable crisps. The duck leg had been lovingly slow cooked for a very long time, as the meat fell away from the bone with barely a touch. Despite this, the duck skin was supremely light and crispy - it made us wish we could replicate this feat at home.
The dessert today was a chocolate cheesecake. We were presented with two slices each of white cheesecake layered on a rich chocolate mousse, which itself was layered on a crunchy biscuit base. It was accompanied by an unusual thin custard that had a lovely floral and herb aroma, but personally, I thought that the cheescake was so good in itself that it didn't need it.
The five-course menu costs €25 per person. This is a seriously good restaurant, and we loved the creative no-choice menu. It's always interesting (and in this case, rewarding) to find yourself eating dishes that you may not have chosen yourself - turns simple dining into a fun gastronomic adventure.
Genestar is open for lunch during the summer season (1pm to 3.30pm) and dinner (8pm to 11.30pm) but is closed on Wednesdays and Sunday lunchtime.
