Birdwatching in Formentor, Mallorca

The road is accessed by heading out of Puerto Pollensa along the MA-2210 road and by following the brown coloured signs marked Formentor. Once you pass the military site on your right and the football ground on your left you will see a small roundabout up ahead. It is worth a little stop by the metal gate in front of you which overlooks Alburcutz Farm (private). From the gate overlooking the vegetation it is possible to see Woodchat Shrike, Warblers and even Black Kites during May which pass through on migration. The road to Formentor from here quickly climbs uphill and you start the journey along the twisting mountain roads. The road has a series of hairpin bends and care is needed when driving along here. You will soon see the harbour of Puerto Pollensa below you as you climb higher.

After a short drive you come to Mirador La Creveta (known simply as the Mirador) after the Km5 marker post. This is a popular stop off for tourists who arrive by coach so the earlier you are here the better in terms of seeing the birds. The steep majestic cliffs here hold a small breeding colony of Pallid Swift. Eleanora’s Falcons arrive here at the latter end of April from Madagascar to breed. Peregrine Falcon is also possible and Crag Martins fly busily along the cliffs in search of their flying insect prey. To the right up on the hillside is a Moorish tower but save time by not going up to it as it can be included in the return journey. For now continue along the road which soon travels through the beautiful pine forests, with glimpses of the ocean beyond the gaps in the trees. The sheer cliffs and ridges have commanding views over the deep blue sea, and are patrolled by the local goats who stand perilously close to the edges.

Eventually you will come to a fork in the road. Straight ahead takes you to the luxurious Formentor Hotel with its private beaches. Follow the road around to the left where the road straightens out for a while. Night drives along this road have given me Barn Owl, Little Owl, Red-legged Partridge, Nightjar and Pine Martins - and on one special occasion here I saw my first and only Genet, a nocturnal Old World mammal related to the Mongoose. Immediately after the Km11 marker post, pull in onto the grass area on your left. The brown sign with the local name on has gone but you are in Cases Velles – one of the best bird migration spots on Mallorca. This whole area can be alive with migrants passing through, and the species can change by the hour. Unless you are staying at the Formentor Hotel, access beyond the gates is restricted so please don’t be tempted to stray inside the forests. There are places further along the route where footpaths can take you into the forests and beyond. For now simply enjoy the many species to be seen either perched on the fences, in the many fruit and almond trees or in the pine trees themselves. The ever present call of the local Peacocks will certainly accompany the calls and songs of the local birdlife.

This can be a busy road so be careful, but look for birds such as Spotted and Pied Flycatchers (I have had Collard Flycatcher here on one occasion), Redstarts, Whinchats, Wheatears, Buntings and Warblers such as Blackcap, Willow Warbler, Wood Warbler, Whitethroat and Chiffchaff. The chattering call of Sardinian Warbler will always be close by as they skulk and feed in the thick vegetation. Some very rare species have been recorded from here including Ortolan Bunting and Olive-backed Pipit. The pine trees are good for Firecrest and Serin and a speciality of the area, the Common Crossbill. In fact the Crossbills here are a sub-species (Balearica). Listen for their distinctive ‘chip chip’ calls. They have a Catalan name of ‘trencapinyons’ which means ‘pine nut cracker’.

Turtle Dove, Hoopoe and even Roller are possible and Golden Oriole is likely too on migration. In the evening the forests echo out the calls of the dainty Scops Owl. They can occasionally be found by day roosting in trees anywhere on the island but their cryptic plumage makes them difficult to see. Raptors such as Egyptian Vulture and Booted Eagle can be seen above the ridges which echo out the familiar ‘cronking’ call of the resident Raven. Once back on the road you continue on through a tunnel. You can park on the left immediately after you exit the tunnel (room for about two cars). There are steep drops but the view down to the beautiful turquoise coloured waters is breath-taking.

As you drive on the views just get better and better and the ridges become higher and more spectacular. Eventually the twisting roads will bring you to Cap de Formentor with its lighthouse. There is parking available but it becomes more congested the later in the day. The lighthouse has a delightful café adjacent to it where a beer, coffee, tea or soft drink can be purchased along with a mix of foods. There are toilets here too. From the balcony one can take the time to have a sit down, enjoy the drink and food, breathe in the clear mountain air and simply enjoy the amazing views. On a clear day you can see the neighbouring island of Ibiza.

The bird species here are interesting. Crag Martins will be flitting about and the stunning Blue Rock Thrush can be seen jealously defending its territory. This is a great place to watch Eleanora’s Falcons twist and turn as they skilfully hunt Dragonflies. Peregrines and the occasional Booted Eagle can be seen. Raptors pass through here on migration too and on one lucky occasion I watched a large group of Honey Buzzards and Black Kites pass through – a memory that will stay with me forever.

Adjacent to the toilets is a scrub area which can hold a good variety of small birds that stop to feed on migration. But take the opportunity to scan over the beautiful blue ocean for two impressive Shearwater species. The majestic Cory’s Shearwater can be seen gently bobbing up and down above the water tantalisingly close to the waves. They are quite large with a brown back and upper wings and a light front. Mixed in however and sometimes in groups will be the smaller Balearic Shearwater. This species is of particular interest to the visiting bird watcher as they are amongst the third rarest species with a world population of only around 3,000 pairs. They breed between February and June and raise only one chick.

So there you have it. Not only will you have enjoyed an amazing drive along hairpin roads with spectacular scenery, clear aqua and turquoise waters, scented pine trees and of course an impressive selection of birds too, but you will get the chance to see everything from a different angle on the return journey back to Puerto Pollensa. However, don’t forget to divert up to the watch tower opposite the Mirador (the turn off will be on your left) on the way back. This is called Talace de Alburcutz. There is parking beyond the derelict buildings but spaces are limited and care is needed when turning. The tower itself was used during World War II as a look out for advancing German fighters, and until recently there were German planes painted on the ceiling inside the tower used back in the day as a reference guide.

There are a series of steel steps which can take you inside the tower, but for those who wish to keep their feet firmly on the ground you can enjoy the stunning views including looking down to the Formentor Hotel with its private beaches. The vegetation around the tower attracts a lot of migrants as they pass through, particularly the Warbler species and there is always the chance of a passing bird of prey using the warm thermals of the ridges to their advantage to allow them to gently and effortlessly climb higher.

Article written by wildlife expert Neville Davies, author of Bird Watching in Mallorca (ISBN 978-0-9575387-0-2). Books and other information available by visiting www.ecologycymru.co.uk