It's late October, and still the sun shines in Mallorca. And not just that autumnal sun that provides such wonderful light, but proper hot sunshine. It was a blissful 27 degrees yesterday, and with Northern Europe under the influence of a cold northerly front, we thank our lucky stars that we are here, away from the grey and the damp.
It would be fair to say that the weather has cooled down in Majorca during October, but we are talking from an average of 28 degrees at the beginning of the month, to a still very pleasant average of 20 degrees now we are close to November. And of course, we still have days like yesterday when you could be mistaken for thinking it was still summer, and even more brilliantly, without the crowds. Determined to take advantage of the blue skies and warm sunshine, we decided to head to Cala Varques, on the east coast of Mallorca. The east coast is blessed with many wonderful beaches, and also sadly cursed by some of the purpose-built resorts that back up right on to the long stretches of golden white sand. However, there are still several beaches on this coast that remain wild and natural, if you know where to find them.
Cala Varques is one such place. You are best off driving there (or taking a boat) and you'll need to take the road going from Porto Colom to Porto Cristo. Once you have passed the turn off for Manacor, take the next right hand turn into a dirt track (about 150 meters). Drive up for about five minutes and you'll reach a dead end. Park where you can (the lane is quite narrow) and take the path through the woods down to the beach (about 5 minutes). It is really beautiful here - pine forests surrounded by farmland - and not a hint of any development.
The beach is situated in a cove, and is protected from the wind. It is fairly small and deep, with fine, silky-soft sand leading into turquoise waters. The sea is irresistible here - so clear and blue, it's almost impossible not to be lured in. The waves roll in thanks to the geography of the bay, so if you have one, bring along a body-board to ride the waves in to the shore. If you walk around the corner to the right of the main beach, there is a smaller beach that nudists prefer to use. There are no facilities here, so be prepared to bring food and drink along with you.
Of course, at this time of year, the beach is wonderfully quiet and you can enjoy the sound of nature as you lie back on your towel, enjoying the relaxing heat of the sun. There were a couple of families there yesterday, but there was plenty of space for everyone to have a quiet, private spot of their own. The sea is still warm at this time of year so not only is it enticing, but it is also welcoming. We spent some time admiring the climbers that were pitting their skills in the caves to the left of the beach, safe in the knowledge that any fall would be broken by the sea. Overhang heaven, it seems to be a popular and challenging spot for them.
Apparently, cows from the neighbouring farms sometimes wander down on to the beach. Cannier than you may expect, they have been known to snuffle out any food that you might have in your bags. If you see them coming, your best bet is to gather your things and get out of their way - they don't scare easily!
Read more about Cala Varques Beach.