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La Nit de Foc 2016

Celebrating San Juan in Palma de Mallorca

featured in Events reviews Author Emily Benet, Mallorca Reporter Updated

The festivities of San Juan kicked off on the evening of 23rd June with a wonderful family-friendly atmosphere in front of Palma's majestic Cathedral. A band playing traditional Mallorcan music spurred on the crowds who needed little encouragement to get involved in the folk dance known as Ball de Bot.

To a visitor, the dance looks spontaneous and improvised, but there is in fact five different styles and basic choreographies that tie in with the music. Once upon a time it was a dance between couples, but nowadays dancing in a circle has become common and makes it easier to learn. Graceful and hypnotic, the light footed dancers leapt from one foot to the other, spinning this way and that, arms carving out arcs in the evening sky. There was no shame in being a beginner with young and old mingling happily together, while onlookers like me wondered when they might be able to sign up for a crash course.

folk dancing before the nit de foc celebrations in palma de mallorca


A well-organised barbeque was responsible for the delicious smell wafting across Parque de la Mar and it kept hundreds fed well into the night. At around 22.00 a huge bonfire was lit. Unlike bonfire nights in the UK, there was no barrier in sight, and excited children ran rings around it. As I sat beside it, I noticed people walking up and throwing tightly folded pieces of paper into the fire. Writing down your wishes and throwing them into the furnace is one of the traditions of San Juan and I dutifully followed suit.

At 11.30 the spectacle of the correfoc finally commenced with the rousing sound of the 'batucada', a band of percussionists. The sound of drums is thrilling alone, but more so when it marks the arrival of demons. Yes, devils are a common part of Mallorcan festivities. There are groups all over the island who volunteer to scare, I mean entertain, the public and get involved in the fiery phase of the fiestas.

Sparks and fireworks as the demons arrive at nit de foc in palma de mallorca


Firemen waited discreetly in the wings as the horned devils advanced with their flaming torches, fireworks and firecrackers. I've been watching correfocs since I was little and was prepared for the madness, however having friends over from England served as a hilarious reminder of just how insane it is.

The demonic procession headed across the square, sparks flying around and above them. Bystanders held their nerve long enough to take a photo, before running off shrieking in different directions. They are playing with real fire after all and you can get burnt if you're not careful! The drummers mounted a stage at one end, providing a pounding heartbeat to the show. Those dressed for the occasion in long sleeves and hats, braved the sparks and smoke to jump and dance beneath the whizzing fireworks. The devils produced dragons which breathed fire and other post-apocalyptic looking contraptions.

fireworks coming from a dragons tails at nit de foc palma de mallorca


After the last bang of fireworks, I followed the fiesta down to the paseo maritimo, the main seaside promenade. The beaches were ram-packed with revellers. It was like a very busy weekend at the seaside but carried out in the middle of the night. Groups of friends had come together with picnics and music and in some cases, kindling wood. There were sporadic bonfires all along the coast where people carried out the typical San Juan rituals. One of them is to swim in the sea at midnight. It was well passed that by the time I arrived after the correfoc, but I've got used to working on Spanish time and when in Rome and all that... It wasn't as cold as you would think and once out, I soon warmed up beside a bonfire!

The celebrations of San Juan might be more well-known in Menorca, but Mallorca's capital certainly didn't let the side down. It felt like New Year's Eve! The following day being a holiday meant that no one was in a rush to call it a night and for the first time in a long time I was still awake to see the sunrise. All in the name of research, of course. A wonderfully mad and exciting fiesta with something for all the family. Definitely a date I'll be keeping free next June!

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Location

Map of the surrounding area